Monday Movie – Conrad Anker’s Gear Room

Conrad Anker is a living legend in the climbing world. Soft spoken yet driven, I’ve always had a ton of respect for Conrad for the cutting edge climbs he’s done and for the way he lives and carries himself. All climbers have some sort of gear room; whether it’s a garage, closet, or a few bins in their dirtbag van, climbers have a deep connection with their gear that includes how it is stored. I know I will often peruse through my gear room, thinking of the stories told by pieces of gear; falls taken, friends climbed with, summits reached.

Here’s an insightful video looking at Conrad Anker’s gear room. Enjoy.

BD Crash Pads, Episode 1: Conrad Anker’s Gear Room from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

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Monday Movie – Mayan Smith-Gobat on Punks in the Gym

A nice video of Mayan Smith-Gobat climbing in beautiful Arapiles on Punks in the Gym. Enjoy.

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Monday Movie – Nina Caprez & Cedric Lachat

This is a great little video with a wonderful story and beautiful imagery. My great grandmother was born in Switzerland and our family has always had a special place for it in our hearts. Nina Caprez cranks this cool looking route. Enjoy.

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Resolutions

2013 is full blown. Have you asked yourself what you want to do this year?

Goals? Resolutions? To-do lists? Whatever you want to call them, it can be motivating to make some resolutions.

Setting goals can be a bit like going to the dentist: I know it’s a good thing, but it’s always a reminder of my less than perfect hygiene. Hence, it is a call to action for something I have a hard time doing.

That’s why when I set New Year’s resolutions, I set attainable goals, like quitting smoking (I don’t smoke), eating my vegetables (which I love) and not beating my wife (which I don’t do).

I tell my wife every year that she should be glad that I prioritize her when setting my goals for the year. She says I should get serious.

Read the rest of the article here at the Glenwood Springs Post Independent website.

Scott Nykerk works towards his goal of climbing a difficult route in Rifle Mountain Park.

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Monday Movie – Making Tommy

Tommy Caldwell has long been my candidate for one of the best climbers in the world due to his all-around ability and his big wall free climbing ascents. Plus, he’s a really nice guy.

I remember meeting his dad years ago in Zion National Park and Tommy’s dad, Mike, is a super fun, energetic guy that loves climbing. Hence, it’s no surprise that he passed that love of climbing on to his son, something I hope to do with my kids.

Making Tommy from Patagonia on Vimeo.

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Monday Movie – Chris Shulte on Independence Pass

Climbing movies are a great way to start your week. So, here you go, Chris Shulte on Independence Pass. “The Pass”, as locals here in the Roaring Fork Valley tend to call it, is a favorite summertime destination and the Ice Caves area is a fun climbing spot as well as popular hiking/tourist destination. Enjoy.

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My little voice

We all have those little voices in our heads, or at least I do. Sometimes my little voice is the encouraging, positive voice that motivates me to do more and try harder. But, more often than not, the voice is telling me to doubt myself, that I’m not strong enough or fit enough to continue in whatever climb, race or athletic endeavor I am engaged in.

The subconscious voices that fill our heads with doubtful chatter can be annoying. Why can’t my voice be positive all the time?

Read the rest of the story here from the Glenwood Springs Post Independent.

Rappelling Morning Glory Arch near Moab, Utah with my 2 year old daughter. 

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Tech Tip: Rappelling with a GriGri (or Cinch or what have you)


Check out my recent Tech Tip on rappelling with a GriGri, Cinch or what have you at Splitter Choss.

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Extreme Botany

The idea of getting paid to climb in the Black Canyon almost sounded too good to be true. But, I found myself on the North Rim of the Black Canyon in early June to meet my friend Bernadette, a botanist with Colorado State University.

We spent the next four full days driving around between different sites, hiking, scrambling, rappelling and climbing on the walls of the Black in search of a small, rare plant called Black Canyon gilia (Gilia penstemenoides). It is a “climbers’ plant” because it only lives on steep cliff faces and not on ledges or in cracks. It likes little tiny seams or pockets. I’m not a flower lover but I have to admit it, I fell in love with it and had a great time with Bernadette as she described to me the unique characteristics of the many plants we saw around the area.

I am a committed first ascent seeker because I love the adventure and adrenaline you get when climbing a route for the first time. Hence, it was with great excitement that I located our first new, previously undocumented site of the Black Canyon gilia. I was hooked. Even when out for a run in the evenings after work I kept scanning cliff faces in search of this elusive little plant.

The task of relocating previously documented sites, the climbers’ equivalent of a repeat or second ascent of a route, was also a thrill. My first 10 hour day was filled with rappelling, climbing, scrambling, hiking many miles and carefully scanning cliff faces with a spotting scope but without finding a trace of the gilia. The difficulty of the task was immediately exciting and every time I spotted one of the little things I was filled with excitement.

I hope to do future work in this field and have had some discussions about future projects. In a way, I found it a way to make a more useful purpose for climbing and that alone has helped hook me into the work.

For more, check out Bernadette’s botany blog post or my gallery of pictures from the experience.

 

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La Obsesion – Dani Andrada

I enjoyed this video about Dani Andrada because it was good to hear from someone else who enjoys putting up new routes as well as rebolting old routes for the benefit of the community. I appreciate the work people put into their local crags to keep them clean and in good order. Enjoy.

La Obsesión – A film about Dani Andrada from Haroun Souirji on Vimeo.

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