Bad Bolts Suck!

New and old 5th bolt while bolting/rebolting Pretty Hate Machine in Rifle.
Bad bolts suck, that is for sure. But, it’s a hard task to replace those bad bolts. This winter, one of my project was rebolting the steeply overhanging, classic route, Pretty Hate Machine in Rifle. Here’s the story, published on Splitter Choss, of what it took to rebolt that rig. For more pictures, check out my gallery. Also, a great article about bad bolts from Deadpoint Magazine.

Finally, consider supporting the American Safe Climbing Association and checking out the great hardware from the companies whose product I used on Pretty Hate Machine, ClimbTech and C.A.M.P. They’ve both got some great product for use in the vertical world.

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Monday Movie – Paige Claasen on To Bolt Or Not To Be

Smith Rock is one of my favorite climbing areas and here’s a great video of Paige Claasen sending the classic 5.14a, To Bolt Or Not To Be. Also, check out the recent podcast with her on the Enormocast. It’s a great conversation and well worth listening to. Enjoy.

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Monday Movie – Beth Rodden is Climbing Back

I love this video from Outdoor Research about Beth Rodden coming back from a string of injuries to get back into shape for climbing. I had surgery this winter to clean up a torn meniscus and it’s been humbling to tone things back for a while and get back in shape.

Enjoy.

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Monday Movie – Yosemite & The Epic Sierra

Galen Rowell was a famous photographer and now his son, Tony, carries on the family tradition in this beautiful movie of one of my favorite places, Yosemite and the Sierras.

Yosemite & The Epic Sierra from Tony Rowell on Vimeo.

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Monday Movie – Zombie Roof

Here’s a movie about a climb in Squamish (Canada) that will make your hands sweat. Enjoy

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Monday Movie – Alex Honnold & A Gift From Wyoming

Yosemite Valley is one of my favorite places on Earth so it’s always great to see a nice video about climbing there. The following two videos totally fit the bill as Alex Honnold talks about finishing an old Todd Skinner project on the Leaning Tower.

It’s interesting to see the process that Honnold takes and the motivation that stems from this encounter with Skinner. In the first video, I appreciate the discussion about the mindset we have for different challenges. Having a growth mindset and one that is eager to take on challenges and work hard is incredibly beneficial and often we have to cultivate it because it doesn’t always come naturally.

Enjoy.

Video #1: BD athlete Alex Honnold making the first ascent of A Gift From Wyoming (5.13) on Yosemite’s Leaning Tower from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Video #2: BD athlete Alex Honnold making the first ascent of A Gift From Wyoming (5.13) on Yosemite’s Leaning Tower from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

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Monday Movie – The Yurt Project

Spring is here in western Colorado and the climbing conditions are great. I just returned from a trip to Maui so it feels odd to post some videos about winter and skiing. But, they are too good to pass up and reflect on this past winter. Plus, they feature our area and include my favorite lift-served skiing area, Aspen Highlands, and my favorite local backcountry skiing, Marble.

There are a couple of great videos from the Yurt Project. When you’re done, put away the skis and embrace the spring climbing season.

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Attitude is everything

Attitude is a powerful force and can be a game changer in determining the outcome of challenging goal.

Check out my article about attitude in the Glenwood Springs Post Independent.

Molly climbs in Rifle Mountain Park.

 

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Monday Movie – Forgotten Lines w/ Steph Davis

Moab is an adventurer’s playground and this fun little movie highlights that. Steph Davis and Mario Richard BASE jump the approach to a hard, obscure route in Moab. Enjoy.

Forgotten Lines from 3 Strings on Vimeo.

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Monday Movie – The Making of a Cam

Here’s a great little video from Metolius showing how a cam is made, from idea to plugging into a crack for protection.

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